PVC Drip Irrigation System for your garden

PVC Drip Irrigation is an inexpensive and easy to build method for watering your backyard garden.  After adding a PVC drip irrigation system to your garden you can expect stronger vegetable plants, fewer weeds and a lower water bill!

PVC Drip Irrigation

 

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Building your own PVC Drip Irrigation System

Let me start out this post by strongly stating my opinion about drip irrigation systems.  I think some type of drip irrigation system is the ONLY way to water a garden of any size.  In fact I even know market growers with “gardens” over an acre in size that use drip systems.

There are several reasons I feel so strongly about drip systems.  First they use a ton less water.  Drip systems deliver water directly to the plants and don’t water all the surrounding empty space so they save water.  Second, because you are only watering your plants, you are by default not watering weeds.  This makes a big difference in the amount of work you have to do weeding your garden.  Third, they are much more flexible allowing you to change the configuration of your garden each year.

There are really 3 types of drip systems each has its own advantages & disadvantages:

  1. Kit systems that use distribution systems and tubing for individual plants.
  2. Soaker hoses
  3. PVC Drip Irrigation systems

 

Kit systems are great for bigger plants.  You can run the tubing to each tomato or squash and get the water right where you want it.  But kit systems are very expensive; to do a garden my size would take hundreds of dollars.

Soaker hoses are great for row crops but waste some water when you are dealing with larger individual plants.  They are also very expensive as you have to buy a lot of hoses to water a big garden.

PVC drip irrigation systems are the perfect solution.  You can deal with larger plants and row crops based on the number of holes you drill in the pipes.  They are cheaper to build for larger gardens.  PVC systems can also be very flexible.  The one disadvantage is the initial set up (the first year) can take awhile because you have to drill a lot of holes in the pipe. So let’s take a look at my PVC drip irrigation system:

PVC Drip Irrigation

Here’s a shot of it covering my whole garden.  Notice it works for both the row crops like carrots, peas, beans, potatoes and corn.  PVC Drip Irrigation also works perfect for larger crops like tomatoes and squash.

PVC Drip Irrigation Borrow

Here’s a shot of the drip system we use at our second “borrowed” garden.  Again it works perfectly for all the row crops we grow here. First time set up is easy, but time consuming. The biggest time commitment comes from having to drill hundreds of holes in the pipe.  But after the first year set up and take down of the system is quick and easy!

To get started you need pipe, several connectors, elbows and tees, a drill with a couple of small drill bits and something to cut the pipe (a pvc pipe cutter or just a hack saw).

What size of pipe should you use?

So let’s talk pipe first.  The first PVC system I set up I used ½ inch PVC pipe.  The ½ inch pipe works great for shorter lengths, but when I have to cover big long rows of 20 feet or more they don’t work quite as well.

I have now slowly started converting all my long row crops to ¾ inch pipe.  Those pipes hold more water so the water seems to get to the end of the pipe a little better.  So for a garden like mine, if I were to do it all over again I would use all ¾ inch pipes.  If you are dealing with shorter beds, like 4 x 8 foot beds the ½ inch pipe will be fine.

PVC Drip Irrigation

For row crops I drill a 1/16 inch hole in the pipe every 6 inches.  The water from each hole soaks out about 3 inches from the center so each hole’s water meets in the middle.

PVC Drip Irrigation

For larger crops, I drill maybe 1 or 2 slightly larger holes maybe 1/8 inch right where the base of the plant is.  Then when I put in my plants I form a small basin of soil around the plant to help keep the water right around the base.  Then I simply lay out my watering system BEFORE I plant each year, then I know where to put the plants so they will have a water hole close buy. PVC Drip Irrigation

For longer stretches of pipe I simply join the pipe with a coupling piece. Then I of course add an end plug on one end. PVC Drip Irrigation tees

Most of the time I will use 2 or 3 rows of pipe in my 4 foot beds.  The number really depends on the crops I am growing.  So I uses some 90 degree elbows and 3 sided tee’s to  create a little distribution system at the top of the bed like you see in the picture above. DO NOT under any circumstance glue the pipes together.  This will be a low pressure system and the pipes will stay together WITHOUT GLUE.  If you glue the pipe together then you loose the ability to move pipes around to deal with different planting configurations.

PVC Drip Irrigation connector

Getting Water to your System.

You can go as simple or complicated as you want getting the water into the pipes.  I simply have this little connector that attaches to my hose and fits over the end of the pipe.  The hose is  then move it from bed to bed with the hose.  I’ve found that with my longer 25 foot beds I can only water one bed at a time and still have the right amount of pressure.

You can also be more complicated and add a main line that connects up to each bed and has a valve that you can turn on at each bed.  The main line would be under more pressure so you may want to glue those pipes.  Or you could even be really fancy and add a filter system and an electronic valve box and timers.  The sky is the limit!! I like having my system attached to a hose bib.  That way I can control the amount of water pressure using the bib.

You want just enough water running through the pipes for it to get to the end and drip or ooze out of the pipe.  If you have the water pressure up too high the water will spray out of the pipes with too much force.  That will drill holes in the ground and possibly damage plants.  Also too much pressure tends to mean the water will be coming out too fast and it will run off the beds instead of soaking into the soil.

How much does it cost?

PVC pipe is cheap, over the years I have maybe spent $75 to $100 to get my system to where it is now.  It waters 100% of my garden.  Since going away from sprinklers and flood irrigation the amount of time we spend weeding the garden has also gone way down.  Especially in the summer when there is no rain in the garden to sprout the weed seeds.

One Warning-PVC systems are not good for Hills!

Before we finish up let me give you one warning.  PVC Drip Irrigation is not the ideal system to use if your garden beds have an extreme slope.  My beds are pretty flat, there is a bit of a slope to the east in my garden but it is very minor.  If your garden beds have an extreme slope the PVC system may not work for you.

If that is the case I would suggest buying only a few pipe for an experiment. Maybe spend $10 to see if it will work in your garden, before going crazy and buying enough pipe for the whole thing.  The problem with slopes is getting even water pressure.  If your slope is too sever you may have too much pressure at the bottom of the slope and none at the top!  So test it out in your garden before you spend a lot of money!

My most popular post ever leads to a video course!!

To finish off I just want to say thanks for reading this post.  It is by far my most popular post ever with thousands of visitors every month!!  So much interest inspired me to film an instructional video course on this PVC Drip system.  The cost for the course is only $10.   The course is now hosted on my own video site, The Online Gardening School!  If you would like to buy the course just click on the ad below!

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PVC Drip Irrigation

Simple & Easy PVC Drip System

 

78 Comments

  1. mac February 20, 2015 8:47 pm Reply

    Very nice drip system you have there, thanks for the tutorial.

    http://highdesertgarden.com

  2. Jo Anne February 22, 2015 6:28 pm Reply

    Great article thank you. Can you explain more about the connector attaching to the hose, and pvc. Where did you find the connector piece?

    • Mr. Stoney February 22, 2015 9:37 pm Reply

      Jo Anne, thanks for the question. You should be able to find those connectors at about any home improvement store. They have an open end on one side and the other end is threaded so that you can screw it onto the hose. The one in the photo also has a valve on it so that if you like you can shut the water off there in the garden if you like and leave the hose bib on. But I also have some that one side connects to the hose the other to the pipe. I will dig them out and take pictures.

  3. Monte February 23, 2015 8:24 am Reply

    Thank you for the info! One question….what part of the pipe do you drill the holes? Top, bottom or side?

    • Mr. Stoney February 23, 2015 8:45 am Reply

      Monte, Because the pipes are round there isn’t really a top, bottom or side. Just drill the holes in a straight line on the same “side” of the pipe. I then turn the holes down so that the water stream or drip soaks into the soil directly in the root zone of your plants.

  4. Norma Chang February 23, 2015 4:02 pm Reply

    May be I can get my son-in-law to build a system for me.

    http://gardentowok.wordpress.com

    • Regina April 26, 2017 6:50 pm Reply

      Ms. Norma, believe me, you can do this. I’m a Mom who plays with PVC pipe like tinkertoy. Don’t let your boy have all the fun.

  5. brandon best February 23, 2015 6:11 pm Reply

    would drip tape be less expensive and easier to run? and also have you ever used row plastic for your plants and irrigation?

    • Mr. Stoney February 23, 2015 7:18 pm Reply

      Brandon, I would have to price the drip tape to see how it compares. And I am not familiar with “row plastic”. Could you please describe for me?

  6. Kelly February 24, 2015 5:01 am Reply

    Great system! My sister-in-law inherited a underground drip system on her property and I always thought it was the best thing ever! I need to seriously consider doing this!
    Hope to see you again at the Homestead Blog Hop tomorrow.

    http://simplelifemom.com

    • Mr. Stoney February 25, 2015 9:30 pm Reply

      I’ve seen a few underground systems like that. Very cool idea! We could never pull it off because our water comes from a secondary source and isn’t very clean. So we end up having to clean out many of the smaller holes part way through the year. We couldn’t do that if they were buried.

  7. heather February 24, 2015 2:27 pm Reply

    this is without a doubt the best idea ever!! You totally win the internet for this one 🙂

    http://www.thehomesteadinghippy.com

    • Mr. Stoney February 25, 2015 9:28 pm Reply

      Thanks Heather, this post has been our most read post ever!! It’s awesome to have so many readers!

  8. Terri Presser February 25, 2015 12:40 pm Reply

    What a great informative and helpful post, I am passing this onto my husband. Thanks for sharing this at Good Morning Mondays. Blessings

    http://darlingdownsdiaries.com

    • Mr. Stoney February 25, 2015 9:24 pm Reply

      Glad you liked it!!

  9. lisa M February 26, 2015 2:03 pm Reply

    Great drip system. Hopefully I can talk the hubby into building one for me this spring!

    Thanks for linking up with Green Thumb Thursday. I hope you join us again this week!

    Lisa

    http://www.FeathersInTheWoods.com

  10. gina March 25, 2015 9:51 am Reply

    Would there be enough pressure to do this from a rain barrel?? Or are there modifications that can be made to create enough pressure for this to work from a rain barrel? I love the PVC drip irrigation idea for our smaller sq foot garden, but I haven’t seen any methods that use a bucket or barrel rather than a hose.

    • Mr. Stoney March 25, 2015 5:33 pm Reply

      Gina, great question!! Pressure is always going to be an issue from a rain barrel. But I believe you would be just fine with a smaller application. So if you kept your pipe lengths to only 8 foot sections (or smaller) and you set up a distribution system that allows you to turn the water on to only once section of pipe at a time I think it would work great! If you would like a little more specific advice why don’t you send me some photos of the garden and lets see what we can come up with!! Email me at rick@ourstoneyacres.com.

      • gina April 22, 2015 9:56 am Reply

        We made a PVC drip irrigation from our rain barrel with great success! I will email you the pics and specifications in case you want to add any bit of that to your video for advice to those wanting to do a rain barrell.

        • Mr. Stoney April 22, 2015 11:08 am Reply

          Gina, Thank you that is awesome. Please send me those pictures and I will include a section in my new video!! Send them to rick@ourstoneyacres.com

  11. vicky March 30, 2015 8:10 pm Reply

    We have the garden area ready to plant (onions are in but still a bit cool for other stuff) so we are in the process of getting this done as well. We have a pretty big garden area (80′ long and 60′ wide) so it’s going to be a job but I think it will be worth it. Thanks!

    • Mr. Stoney March 30, 2015 8:52 pm Reply

      Awesome Vicki!! In a couple of weeks I will have a video course on the PVC system ready. That may help as well. One suggestion I would give you on that big of a garden area. Be sure to use 3/4 inch PVC pipe and I would consider dividing the garden in half with a main water line. Then run your pipes from the center. That will make them only 40 feet long. With 80 foot lengths of PVC you will have a really hard time getting the water all the way to the end of the pipe. Breaking them into 40 foot sections will make for a much better system. 80 feet is just too long!!

  12. Tim April 22, 2015 9:32 am Reply

    Please remember that a lot of people in northern areas with freezing temps all winter read your page. Northerners have a lot of different situations to deal with and need advise as well. Consider Alaska please!

    • Mr. Stoney April 22, 2015 11:09 am Reply

      Tim, I’m happy to help. We have some tough winters but nothing like yours I’m sure. Do you have a specific question related to the PVC system and cold weather that I can try to answer??

  13. Heather May 3, 2015 7:44 pm Reply

    We have about a 50ft x 20ft garden that we just did this for thanks to finding your post! We’ve got 3 zones so to speak, and I’m ridiculously excited about garden watering this year. We live in MN and definitely get extremely frigid temps. Would it be okay for the PVC to lay in the garden all winter if we blow out any moisture, or should we dissemble for garage storage do you think? (Garage is probably still below freezing)

    • Mr. Stoney May 3, 2015 9:22 pm Reply

      Heather, great question. Thanks for reading. You really don’t need to worry about “blowing” the pipes out. Just take them apart and tip out any water and then stack them up some where in your garden for next year. They will be just fine. Although the pipes may last a few years longer if you store them indoors in the winter.

  14. Wyowink November 14, 2015 11:40 pm Reply

    To increase Sheerwater pressure from a Rainbarrel you could use a small water fountain pump from your local garden store

  15. Bekah March 14, 2016 2:27 pm Reply

    If I use the pvc drip irrigation can I still use boxes for weed control and what advice would you give me in using both?

    • Mr. Stoney March 14, 2016 3:10 pm Reply

      Bekah, My drip system is used in a flat bed garden and I haven’t personally used a PVC system in a box garden. But I have see them used before with success. I just googled:using pvc for drip irrigation in box gardens. And found a bunch of images that show PVC being used in Boxes. That might be a good starting point for you. I am adding a large grow box to my yard this year 10 x 15 and I will be using PVC in that box. Once I’ve had a season under my belt with that set up I will update this post and my video course with results!!

  16. Jorge March 23, 2016 8:19 am Reply

    I have an informal English flower garden with a mix of roses, annuals, and small shrubs. I can’t seem to
    reach all of them with my present use of plastic tubes and I have to adjust the sprinkler heads constantly. There has to be an easier way.

    • Mr. Stoney March 23, 2016 9:03 am Reply

      Jorge, PVC systems may not be the best choice for a more formal flower garden as the pipes would be unsightly. Have you tried the soaker hoses? They are usually dark brown or black so they don’t stick out as much. You could run them to all of your plants for a good soaking!

      • Carissa March 31, 2016 5:43 pm Reply

        I had a similar question about ornamental watering. Would it be out of the question to paint the PVC a “mulch brown” color to hide it better? Or would that in some way prevent it from functioning properly? Thank you so much for this article, this is going to save us so much time on our veggie garden!!

        • Mr. Stoney March 31, 2016 5:58 pm Reply

          Carissa, Great question! Something I hadn’t thought of. If you can find a paint that will “stick” to PVC then I don’t know why you couldn’t. I would suggest that you paint before you drill the holes, that way you aren’t painting them shut. You might want to consider other options for flower beds though. The kit drip systems are darker colored and would show up less. Also soaker hoses work well in flower beds. In both cases the added cost might be worth the trouble you would have to go to paint the PVC.

          • Carissa March 31, 2016 6:02 pm

            Great advice for me to mull over! Thanks! Oh, side note, I’m pretty sure I have seen some tutorials floating around the web on spray painting PVC to use as curtain rods (I think it was with rustoleum but I could be wrong), so if anyone decides to go the painting route, maybe google PVC curtain rods for a paint suggestion?

  17. Melanie March 28, 2016 5:48 pm Reply

    Great idea! I attempted a similar idea last year with old garden hoses (hubby has a bad habit of mowing my hoses). It didn’t work very well at all, but I think I’ll try a section with some PVC this year and see how that goes. Thanks! 🙂

    http://www.homesteadingcanuck.com/

    • Mr. Stoney March 28, 2016 6:00 pm Reply

      Thanks Melanie!! Let me know if you have any questions I can help with!!

    • Chuck Tims March 9, 2017 8:40 pm Reply

      I just happened on this site. I have been driving big trucks for 48 years and found this site parked along I-335 here in Illinois. I am really enjoying this site and especially this info when using PVC pipe. WOW! Makes complete sense to me to only water the actual plant and not the whole garden area. Have a Blessed Day.

  18. Lauren May 8, 2016 12:43 pm Reply

    This is a brilliant idea!! My friend and I are starting a garden this year and we’ve been mulling over irrigation ideas since its been so dry this year. Question though, our garden is approx 20′ x 56′, I want to just have a main line running down the length of the garden and then 20′ pieces down each row. For the 20′ lengths, would you recommend 1/2″ or 3/4″ pipe?

    • Mr. Stoney May 9, 2016 8:37 am Reply

      Lauren,
      Great question!! For the main line I would for sure use 3/4″ pipe, you need the extra volume in the main line. 1/2″ would be fine for your 20′ lengths, but that is about the max distance I would take 1/2″, any thing further than 20 feet i would go with 3/4.

  19. Cathy May 10, 2016 10:35 am Reply

    I can’t wait to try this! I just got back from buying all the pieces for my 4×8 bed. Can I make the system in a continuous loop or is it better to cap the ends? Thanks for the Great post!

    • Mr. Stoney May 10, 2016 10:45 am Reply

      Cathy,
      Most of mine are such long lengths that I need to cap the ends. The only thing I would worry about with a continuous loop would be water pressure, and weather there would be enough through the whole system. PVC is so cheap that I would say give it a try, if it works Awesome! if it doesn’t your only out a few bucks! If you decide to do the continuous loop I’d love to hear back on how it works. I’d even love a few photos that I could add to both this post and my video course.

  20. Ron May 16, 2016 7:23 pm Reply

    Great write up Rick….I have been thinking about putting in some form of irrigation for a couple years. I’m getting tired of dragging hoses and perhaps this is the year. My garden is 48×20 ft. and is very flat. I was planning to make a 48 ft. main line with a tap off the main for each row in the garden. I usually plant rows 2 or 3 ft apart so there would be a bunch of T’s on the main. Each tap would have a valve so that I can turn any particular row on or off. I also considered laying it the other way with a 20 ft main and a 48 ft rows but I thought the rows might be too long. A couple questions;

    When you place the lines along the rows they are facing down. Do you raise them up so that the dirt does not plug the holes? or does the basin around the plants act as a support to keep them up out of the dirt?

    Do you run the system 24/7 and just let it drip? or do you turn it on/off. How long do you run the drip for a given row?

    I assume the system does not have a very high flow rate. I was wondering if that would make the well pump cycle on and off?

    Thx for the help

    Ron

    • Mr. Stoney May 16, 2016 9:40 pm Reply

      Ron, great questions, let’s break each answer down:
      1. At our bulk crop garden we have rows that are 60 feet long and they do fine, so 48 shouldn’t be a problem. BUT use 3/4 inch pipe not 1/2.
      2. I face my pipes down and let it soak into the ground that way. That does risk an occasional hole drilled in the ground if I have the pressure to high, but it not a big deal. BUT I have a neighbor that has a very extensive PVC system that he uses to water a very large garden (like 3/4 of an acre). He points all his holes up and they do fine. So, try out both ways and you decide which you like best!
      3. The longest I let any setting run is about an hour, but many run less than that. You will be surprised how much water this low pressure system puts out. Depending on how big your holding tank is, I would assume it is going to cycle the well pump.
      I hope that helps!!

      • Curtis March 20, 2017 8:44 am Reply

        Hi. So do you let this run for an hour per day or an hour per week? And this is an incredibly awesome post by the way. Extremely helpful!

        • Mr. Stoney March 20, 2017 11:49 am Reply

          Curtis, it really depends on the crop and the weather. Usually an hour or less does a good soaking and that will be all I need for at least 3 days maybe more. I NEVER water everyday. watering that often promotes weak plants with shallow roots. You want to water deeply and infrequently to promote deep root growth and strong plants. That is one of the big advantages of the drip system. It water deeply so you don’t have to water as often.

  21. Christina May 25, 2016 12:13 pm Reply

    This is sick a great idea! My husband and I are planning on trying it out for our garden! Would it be okay to put mulch on top of the PVC piping as a way to cover it?

    • Mr. Stoney May 25, 2016 12:47 pm Reply

      Mulching would be fine. The only problem I would see is putting mulch on top of the pipes would make it hard to tell if one of the holes is plugged. Besides that there is really no reason why it wouldn’t work.

  22. Barb D. June 5, 2016 6:48 pm Reply

    Can drip emitter fitting be used with the pvc pipe to help get the water more even.

    • Mr. Stoney June 6, 2016 6:43 pm Reply

      That is something I have never tried. But I think the answer would be no. those emitters are designed to go into that flexible poly pipe I don’t think they would go into the more ridged PVC.

  23. Allistair Mitchell February 27, 2017 4:49 pm Reply

    Hi, Mr. Stoney, would you use the PVC drip system for lettuce?

    I usually plant my seedlings 18″ apart (because they grow that big) and use sprinkler tape.

    Of course, that’s wasted water, but as a starting commercial planter, I want to set up a system I’m not going to touch for a while.

    Your thoughts, please! Thanks!

    • Mr. Stoney February 27, 2017 5:38 pm Reply

      Allistair,
      First off, 18 inches!! Wow those are some big lettuce plants! What variety are you growing?

      Second, I use my PVC system for EVERYTHING; all vegetables, strawberries, raspberries and blackberries. But I’m using it in a garden application not commercial, so the longest lengths I have are 25 feet. But I have used longer lengths before at another garden.

      With lettuce I usually space my plants about 6 to 8 inches and treat them as a row crop. The spacing for the holes in the PVC pipe is at 6 inches.

      If you are going to space that far apart you could easily just drill holes every 18 inches and plant where the drip hole is. One thing to keep in mind, I have found that I can only get decent watering with PVC at a max length of about 60 feet. In fact maybe even a little less than that. So if you are going to use this system in a commercial application you may need to keep your rows at 50 feet or so. With spacing at 18 inches that may not really be the case, but on my pipes that are spaced 6 inches, 50 to 60 feet is really the max effective length. And at that length I have to turn the water up pretty high to get it all the way to the end, so the pressure is REALLY high (higher than I’d like) in the first 15 feet. I’d suggest you buy 5 or 6 – 10 foot lengths of 3/4 PVC, drill the holes and test it out (total investment of around $15) before you switch your whole operation to this system.

  24. Allistair Mitchell March 6, 2017 9:40 am Reply

    Sir,

    Well, first off, I’m in Trinidad & Tobago, the tropics, and we have lots of sunlight right thru the year.

    Secondly, in addition to chicken manure incorporated into the soil, I follow a regime from seedling stage that ensures that I get crops in 21 days.

    Next, watering is no problem usually, since I have two ponds (one’s a hole, really, just about 20′ across and 10′ deep, with a few tilapia in there…the other is 140′ wide and 22′ deep, so you know I’m not running out of water soon).

    I grow an Iceberg variety, but I’m switching to Eden. The Iceberg were touching each other at 3 weeks on a 12″ spacing. I didn’t like that happening, so I’m going to 18″ now.

    I’ll send some pics next harvest in a couple weeks.

    Regards,

  25. Donnis March 23, 2017 9:50 pm Reply

    Hi
    Have you tried the 3/4″ PVC drip system on fruit trees? I have semi-dwarf and keep them 5-6′ tall. If I put a drip hole on each side of the tree at a safe distance and run the water for an hour, would that be enough water? Obviously I could test it out but hoped you had the answer before I go through all the work and find this system is not suitable for fruit trees.

    http://stoney%20%20acres

    • Mr. Stoney March 24, 2017 8:49 am Reply

      Donnis, PVC systems work great for fruit trees. It is hard for me to tell you if an hour would be enough. That will really be based on your soil type and the weather conditions. Set the system up and let it run and experiment. With fruit trees you want to be able to give the roots a good deep soaking drink about once a week, again depending on weather and soil. You may also want to consider 2 water lines with a couple of holes on either side of the tree so that all of the root zone gets water.

  26. S Taylor April 7, 2017 4:27 pm Reply

    Would PVC pipe last all year round outside in the garden if you drain the water out to keep it from freezing in the winter in Colorado?

    • Mr. Stoney April 7, 2017 6:27 pm Reply

      It will be fine! We keep ours outside all winter and I think our winters here in Utah are pretty similar to yours.

  27. Mandy April 9, 2017 6:21 pm Reply

    Thanks for your info. We started this process without reading/watching any tutorials and came to the conclusion we drilled too many holes bc the water pressure only makes it to the 2nd section and questionable at that.
    My garden bed is an L shape with 3 sections of 12 feet for a total of 36′ long and then the “l” is formed with another 12′. The width is 3.’ I was wanting one PVC pipe line down the middle. Thoughts/suggestions on how to make that happen?

    • Mr. Stoney April 9, 2017 6:49 pm Reply

      Mandy,
      I’d love to help but I’m having a hard time picturing your layout. Would you mind emailing me some photos, or maybe going to my facebook page and up loading? That way i can see what you are talking about.
      Also my video course may help. If you click the link in this post it is only $10.00

  28. lippy June 6, 2017 1:12 pm Reply

    how can i convert an existing sprinkler system to the pvc method? can i user risers and connect the pvc pipes in place?

    • Mr. Stoney June 6, 2017 4:32 pm Reply

      I’m not sure I’m following. If you want to send a couple of photos or a diagram I can take a look. Send them to rick@ourstoneyacres.com

    • Ron June 17, 2017 1:06 pm Reply

      That will work….I plan to do the same thing. I plan to remove one of the sprinkler heads, attach an elbow and pvc pipe to bring the zone feed up to the surface, and then plumb it over to the drip system.

      Some sprinkler systems use small rubber hoses as extensions to some of hte heads. These small hoses may restrict the water flow. Best to go all the way back to the 1in underground plumbing and attach it there.

      At the end of the year I blow out my sprinkler system to prevent freezing. You might need to disconnect the drip system first because water in the drip pipe will back feed into the underground plumbing of the sprinkler zone. Just disconnect it and blow out as usual.

      Ron

  29. Steve September 9, 2017 10:23 am Reply

    This looks like an excellent system. I have the soft drip irrigation pipes, with the drippers under the surface of my mulch. Problem is, the joints often blow off if I turn the water pressure up a little too high.

    Think I might have to implement on of these for next Spring 🙂

    Steve

    https://betterhomesteading.com

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