DIY Friday – Simple Cucumber Trellis

Building a simple cucumber trellis for your garden will help the production of your cucumber plants.  This plan uses easy to find lumber and will cost you less than $10 to build!

Build a Simple Cucumber Trellis

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I love to have some structures in the garden.  Not only are they handy to use but they add interest and character to the look of your garden.  This simple cucumber trellis has been a great addition to our vegetable garden!

Cucumbers are one of those garden plants that really begs for a trellis!  Many plants will grow on a trellis but in my opinion cucumbers need a trellis to reach their full production potential.  A big sprawl of cucumber vines with the fruit growing on the grown will never be as productive as vines growing vertically.

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A simple cucumber trellis need to be sturdy and move-able.  You shouldn’t grow cucumbers in the same spot year after year, to help prevent pest and disease problems you need to put them in a different spot each year.  So a few years back I came up with this simple, cheap trellis.

Here’s all you need to build a simple cucumber trellis:

18 feet of 2 x 2 lumber

4 heavy deck screws 2 1/2 inches long

12 to 20 – 1 1/8 inch eye hooks

Some garden twine (or in my case baling twine)

Simple Cucumber trellis 1


The lumber is the cost variable on this project.  If you use redwood or cedar it will last longer but cost a lot more.  Pine or fir will be 1/4 the cost but may not last as many years.  Also you can by 2 x 2’s in pine but if you want to use any other type of lumber you will most likely buy 2 x 4’s and have to rip them on a table saw.

Simple Cucumber trellis 2

We chose to use Douglas Fir 2 x 4’s which we quickly ripped in half on the table saw.  We then cut 3 of the resulting 2 x 2’s to 6 feet in length and cut a 45 degree angle on the bottom of 2 of the boards.  The Douglas Fir should easily last 6 years, more likely 8.

Eye Hooks

Simple Cucumber trellis 3

These eye hooks are simple to use and should outlive the lumber and can be reused if you ever have to rebuild.

Simple Cucumber trellis 4

Drill a small pilot hole and then screw in the hooks by hand.  We chose to put hooks on the sides of the trellis every 10 inches and along the top rail as well.

Out in the Garden

Now head out to the garden with your drill and deck screws.  Drive the two side posts into the ground about 1 foot deep.  We were lucky to have a post driver to do this, but if you don’t have a post driver you can use a heavy mallet or even a hammer.

Simple Cucumber trellis 5

Once the side posts are in, place your top rail on the posts and secure  with a couple of deck screws on each side.

Simple Cucumber trellis 6

Now simply string your twine between the hooks in what ever pattern you like.

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I have found that cucumbers need a little extra support at the bottom so I wrap an extra piece of twine around the posts at about 12 inches.  This gives a spot for the cucumbers to climb through when they are still small.  They don’t really start putting out runners and “grabbing” onto the twine with tendrils until they are about 12 inches tall.  If you give them this first row to go through the plants are supported on both sides at the bottom.

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When the Season is over

When the season is over you can just cut off the twine (that brown garden twine usually only lasts 1 season).  Then back out the screws at the top, pull the side posts out of the ground and bring the whole thing indoors to your garage or garden shed for the winter (this will help the wood last longer).

Simple Cucumber trellis 8

And there you go!  A simple, sturdy trellis for your cucumbers (of course you can use this trellis for just about any climbing veggie or melon).  The trellis keeps the fruit out of the dirt, the leaves and vines have much better air circulation and it’s easier for you to find the fruit and the bee’s to find the flowers.

What other simple garden structures do you use in your garden?

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Hardening off your transplants

An important part of growing your own seedlings is hardening off your transplants. Don’t skip this step or you risk loosing your transplants completely!

Hardening off your transplants

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You have dutifully cared for your new seedlings indoors for 6 weeks and you have a tray full of beautiful plants that look ready to head out to the garden. What now?

There is one more step on the seed starting process that you shouldn’t skip.

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Hardening off your transplants

Hardening off your transplants is the important final step before planting your seedlings in the garden. For the last 6 to 8 weeks your seedlings have been growing in near perfect growing conditions. If you have done your job right your seedlings have been receiving plenty of water, light and nutrition. They have also been growing indoors with very moderate temperatures and no wind. All of this leads to very healthy starts but they are also a little pampered and tender.

The process of hardening off your transplants, slowly prepares your new plants for the harsher conditions out in the garden. Skip this step and you risk causing a shock to your plants from which they may never really recover. Hardening off your seedlings is accomplished by slowly exposing your seedlings to the conditions out in the garden.

When to start hardening off your transplants

Start hardening off your transplants at least a week to ten days before you intend to plant them in the garden. For the first 2 or 3 days bring your seedlings out side for only a few hours, at the most 4 hours. If you are hardening off your seedlings in the cool spring then these first few days could be directly in the garden. If you are hardening off your seedlings in the hot summer or fall you may want to make those first few days under a shady tree so the plants can first get use to the heat with protection.

As the days go on continue hardening off your seedlings by increasing The amount of time they spend outside each day by a couple of hours per day. If you are hardening off your seedlings in the early spring be sure that some of the time spent outside also includes time at night so your plants can adjust to the cold night time temperatures as well.

How long should you harden your transplants

I usually shoot for at least a week to ten days of hardening off time. Be sure to include hardening time in you overall calculations of time for your seedlings. You want most seedlings to only spend about 6 to 8 weeks in pots, any more time than that risks your seedlings becoming root bound in the pots. That 6 to 8 weeks must include the hardening off time so start setting your plants out at the 5 to 7 week mark.

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While you are hardening off your seedlings you need to continue watering and fertilizing as you normally would. In fact be extra sensitive to the water needs of your seedlings while they are hardening. Those small pots don’t hold a lot of moisture and can dry out quickly on a hot or windy day. So be sure you check the condition of your plants often while they are outside. Once your seedlings have been hardened off get them out of those restrictive pots and into the garden!

Remember hardening off your transplants is a process you don’t want to skip. Doing it creates stronger and healthier plants for your garden. In fact I recommend hardening off store bought seedlings for at least a week as well!


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May Planting Guide – 27 crops to plant this month

For zones 4 to 6 May is the time when the bulk of your warm weather crops are planted. This May planting guide will cover all the warm season crops that should be planted this month.

May Planting Guide

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I think May is my favorite month in the garden. This month is when all the work gets done for my summer garden!! In this May planting guide I will take you through what crops should be planted in your garden. This May planting guide is meant to help those of you in zones 4, 5 and 6 to get your summer harvest started! Your average last frost date is the key. Most of your May planting will be based on that date.  So if you don’t know it find it out before you start planting. The easiest way I have found to find that average last frost date is to Google “average frost dates for “your town”.

Cool Season crops you can still plant

If your May and June weather is still pretty mild you can get away with planting a few cool season crops. Those of you in zone 4 will have the best luck with these.


Cabbage is one of those cool season veggies that continues to do well in the warmer weather. Plant cabbage using seedlings any time in May, frost won’t effect this hardy plant.

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Beets also do well in warm weather and can be planted any time in May. Again frost really doesn’t bother this plant.


May Planting Guide 4

Lettuce does really well in May. Choose faster growing leaf varieties that will be mature in 45 days or so, before the real heat of summer sets in. Or you could try some of the summer crisp lettuces. These varieties are breed to withstand the heat of summer. Varieties like Nevada, Muir and Concept, will do great in the summer and avoid many of the traditional problems lettuce have when it gets warm.

May Planting Guide – Warm Season Crops

The bulk of the crops this May planting Guide will cover will be warm season crops. Once your final chance of frost is gone for the year (and in some cases a little before) it is time to start planting your warm season crops. Below is a list of all the warm season crops you can get planted in May.


Both sweet corn and popcorn can be planted in May. Corn is a warm season crop and will be effected by frost. I have found that you can usually get away with planting corn seeds about 10 days before your last threat of frost. The seeds will take between a week to 10 days to germinate so they will be protected in the soil from frost. If you would like to learn more about growing your own popcorn take a look at this post. Also if you would like to learn about my favorite method for growing corn in a small garden check out this post.

May Planting Guide 2
Tomatoes, peppers and egg plant

All 3 of these warm season crops are VERY frost sensitive. So you will want to wait until your average last frost date to get them planted. Even after that average last frost date you need to keep a careful watch on the weather reports for a couple of weeks to be sure a late season frost isn’t going to ruin your crop! One option to consider is planting your tomato family crops in a Walls O’ Water to keep them safe from the frost until June.


Plant watermelon, crenshaw, cantaloupe and other melons in May. These plants can all be planted either by seedlings or by seed. Melon plants are also VERY frost sensitive so be sure to get them out after the chance of frost is past. Consider buying some Heavy Fabric Row Cover cover to help protect your melons from a late frost.


All of the squash family are also considered warm season crops and are super frost sensitive. My preferred method of planting squash is by seeds, but they can also do okay if planted by seedlings. Just be sure the seedlings you choose are VERY small and haven’t started vining yet. The squash family includes summer squashes like zucchini, crookneck squash and patty pan. This family also includes winter squashes like pumpkins, butternut, spaghetti and banana squash. And of course don’t forget our favorite, cucumbers!

May Planting Guide 3

This May planting guide also includes potatoes.  Potatoes usually take a long time to germinate and are more frost hardy than many other warm season crops. So you can get potatoes planted early in the month. Get them in the ground as soon as you can and consider spacing your plantings a bit, maybe one planting early in the month and the other at the end of the month. This will spread out your harvest of potatoes in the summer and fall.

Beans (Green and shelling)

One of our favorite warm season crops is green beans. Both the bush and pole varieties can be planted all of May.  Keep in mind that again they are frost sensitive. So if you choose to plant them early in the month be prepared to protect them with a frost blanket.


May is a great month to plant nearly all of your annual herbs. Basil, dill, oregano, parsley and more will all do well when planted in May. Herbs are slightly more frost resistant but you still need to take care that the plants are not exposed to a heavy frost! May is also a great time to plant perennial herbs as well!


Once your soil has warmed to over 70 degrees you can plant Okra. It is very frost sensitive and also likes heat so you should put off planting this veggie until late in the month when things have really warm up!

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For those of you with a short growing season you should consider getting some parsnips in the ground in late May. Parsnips are a cool season crop but they also have a VERY long growing season of between 100 to 130 days. So if you want a crop in the fall and early winter then those of you will shorts seasons will want to get them planted in late May.

Everbearing Strawberries

May is a little too late to plant bare root strawberries.  But if your local nursery has strawberry starts of everbearing varieties get some planted. If you choose everbearing plants you will even get a small harvest this fall!

Sweet Potatoes

If you have been growing sweet potato slips indoors, late May is the time to get them in the ground. Remember that sweet potatoes are frost sensitive.  They shouldn’t be planted in the soil until SOIL temperatures reach 70 degrees.

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I hope this May planting guide has helped you to get started on your warm season crops. Please just keep in mind that you need to know your average last frost date to determine when you should be planting most of these crops.

Did I miss anything? Let me know if there is something missing from my list!

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Planning Your Garden – 6 ideas for your best garden yet!

Planning your garden is an important step that many gardeners neglect. Get yourself some paper, make a map, and plan out your garden this year.

Planning your garden

If you haven’t already started planting your garden, I’m sure you will be soon.  Please take a few minutes before you start this year to create a written garden plan that includes a map.  Then take that map and include it in your garden journal so that you have it for the next several years.  For me planning your garden is one of those tasks that can be completed in the dead of winter. It’s nice to think about my summer garden when the world is covered in snow!

This often over looked step in the gardening season can save, you time, prevent diseases, and make for an overall more productive garden. There are 6 things you should be planning for in your garden.

The how and whys of planning your garden.

An annual garden plan that includes a map is an important tool for your garden. This map lets you see what was planted year to year. As good as you think your memory is, your garden will begin to blend together in you mind after a few years. It’s important to have last years map to help with this years planning. This map helps with many of the other planning tasks outlined below.

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Plan for succession planting.

The next step in planning your garden is to plan for succession planting. Succession planting in its simplest for is just figuring out a planting schedule that will allow the most use of your garden space. As one crop matures you should plan for another to take its place.

Here are a few examples:

Peas, this early spring crop is usually finished up by mid June in my garden. This leaves a whole bed and a whole summer to deal with. You need to plan what will follow in this bed.

Short season crops like spinach or lettuces can be followed in the summer with warm season crops.

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Plan for larger warm season crops like tomatoes having a faster growing cool season companion. Depending on the bed size I often plant either beets or broccoli on the south side of the bed where I plan on planting my tomatoes. These cool season crops don’t take up too much space and will be close to maturity when I set out my tomato seedlings. They will finish up growing and be harvested before the tomatoes start to take over the beds.

Plan for crop rotation

The next step in planning your garden is to plan for crop rotation. Rotating your crops through your garden beds is a vital practice for every gardener. Even those of you with small gardens should practice crop rotation.

Crop rotation is too big of a subject to try to tackle in this post. But I have a three part series I wrote on crop rotation that will help you out with that topic. The first post in that series can be found here.

Plan for companion planting

Planning your garden includes making a plan for companion planting. The growth and production of many plants is enhanced if they are closely partnered with other plants. Learn more about this interesting practice by reading this post by my blogging friend.

Plan for Shade

The amount of sun your garden receives each day will vary a lot based on the time of year. Shadows from trees or buildings, particularly those on the south side of your garden are much longer in the spring and fall. So you need to plan accordingly. Leafy greens can do well in the shade so plan those crops for the shady spring spots and then replace with sun love crops as the shade recedes

Plan for seedlings

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If you grow your own seedlings be sure to take a little time to plan out the dates you want to get them started. Remember that most veggie starts need between 6 to 8 weeks before they are ready to transplant. To learn more about growing your own seedlings check out our Seed Starting Simplified course.

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Plan planting times

As you yearly garden plan comes together make notes and put together a schedule of the actual dates you will be planting out in your garden. We all have busy lives and having a planting schedule that you can transfer to your calendar is a great way to keep your garden on track.

Planning your garden is an important step. Take some time over the next 6 weeks or so to sit down and map our your garden year.

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Planting out early tomatoes in Wall-of-waters

Planting out early tomatoes in Walls O’ Water makes a huge difference in our short season garden!

Planting out Early Tomatoes

This post contains affiliate links, clicking on them with not cost you any thing extra, but does allow Stoney Acres to make a small commission on your purchase through the Amazon Affiliate Program!

Planting out Early Tomatoes

The average last frost date around Stoney Acres is roughly May 15th.  But some years we can have frost as late as June 1st.  So an important part of season extension for us planting out early tomatoes in Walls O’ Water.  We always like to get a few tomato plants in early every year.  Conditions in the summer are really pretty good for tomatoes but we usually don’t get our first ripe tomato until around August 1st when the tomatoes are planted on the last frost date.  Planting a couple of plants early with the protection of Walls O’ Water gets us a few tomatoes in July (or even June) for fresh eating.

On years when I am really ambitious we try to get all of our tomatoes in early!  This gives us a prolonged harvest all summer long!!

What is a Wall O’ Water

For those of you unfamiliar with Walls O’ Water, they are simply a heavy piece of plastic sectioned off into cells that you fill with water.  They create a green house like environment that gives the plants plenty of heat in the cool spring and they also protect against very heavy freezes.  The protection they offer your tomatoes is far superior to any other method I know of.  In fact I know people who use wall-o-waters in the garden as early as February and they keep the tomatoes warm and happy.

Wall of waters can be a bit of a pain to fill, but I have found an easy solution.  Simply put them around a 5 gallon bucket.  The bucket helps hold them up and then you can fill them easily with a hose.

You can read more about this hack on this post!  Or even better follow this link to one of my YouTube videos that will show you how to fill them up!

When you should be planting out early tomatoes

Our goal is just to have some tomatoes before July so we also choose some early ripening varieties to plant.  Most years we are using two cultivars.  First Early Girl which is a hybrid that will have its first medium sized fruit ready only 60 days after transplant.  Second is Sunsugar, which is also a hybrid cherry type tomato, whose orange fruit will be ready in about 62 days.  We plant these on around April 15th, so our target date will be right around the end of June.  We have been using these two varieties for 5 years now and almost always have a few ripe tomatoes at the end of June!

Here are a couple of other varieties you might want to try, both are heirlooms with maturity dates as early as 65 day!

Jujube -is a cherry grape tomato ready in 65 days

Morning Sun is a yellow cherry ready in as little as 65 days!

How to plant your tomatoes

We always plant our tomatoes deep.  I strip off any of the lower leaves and plant the tomatoes in a deep hole.  Roots will then form all along the buried portion of the stem.  The science is still out on whether this helps the tomatoes produce more fruit, but I have found that it helps the plants during our dry hot summers.  It also makes the plants more stable to help deal with the strong winds we have in our area.

Once they are planted I water them good with a liquid fertilizer.  We use fish emulsion to keep things organic but if you aren’t worried about organic you can just use any complete liquid fertilizer.

Then we put the Walls O’ Water over the top and we are off to the races for the earliest tomato of the year.

I usually keep the tops open like this unless we are expecting really cold weather.  When the weather is really cold we will close those tops up and maybe even clamp them shut.

The Walls O’ Water usually stay on until roughly the 1st of June when all chance of frost is gone.  Usually by then the tomato plants have grown out the tops anyway.  You don’t have to remove the Walls O’ Water.  I know of some gardeners that just leave them on all year, but I think they are a little unsightly in the garden so I like to put them away in June.

Tomatoes are one of my favorite topics!  Along with my Growing Tomato Heaven video course here are several other resources for you on growing tomatoes!

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Growing Tomato Heaven Video Course (Only $10 from this link)

Filling Walls O’ Water – YouTube Video

Planting Early Tomatoes – YouTube Video

How to plant tomatoes – YouTube Video

Ten Tips for Growing Tomatoes

Growing Sun Sugar Tomatoes

Freezing Tomatoes

Planting Early Tomatoes

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April Planting Guide – Zones 5 & 6

As the weather finally starts to warm this April Planting guide will help those of you in zones 5 and 6 to get an early start on this year’s garden.

April Planting Guide

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Let me start out by reminding you this April Planting Guide is meant for those of you living in Zones 5 and 6. You can start planting many cool season vegetables this month. You will also see that you can even get a few warm season veggies planted with protection from the frost.

Those of you in Zone 6 can get started planting right away with most of these. If you are in zone 5 hold off until the middle of April. Always remember that you shouldn’t be planting unless the soil is dry enough to work. Working with wet soil can destroy the soil structure for years to come!!

April Planting Guide
Root crops

Seeds for most root crops can be planted in April, really any time, all month. This includes carrots, radishes, turnips, beets and parsnips. A Light Fabric Row Cover will help keep pest away and will also cause quicker germination and growth in the cool weather.

Cole family crops

All members of the Cole family can be planted in April. For zone 6 set out seedlings around the 5th. Zone 5 should hold off until later in the month. (around the 15th, roughly 30 days before your last frost)

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Remember with this family you will be planting seedlings not seeds. The Cole family includes broccoli, cabbage, collards, kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts and kale.

You will be amazed how much covering Cole crops with a Light Fabric Row Cover will help. It will provide the plants with a good head start and also keep out early season pests!

Leafy greens

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April is the perfect time to plant almost any leafy green. Lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, arugula and many more will do fantastic this month. Plant either by seed or seedling early in the moth for either zone 5 or 6. As with most plants in the April Planting Guide, covering with a Light Fabric Row Cover will help germination and growth in the cool weather.


If you haven’t already planted onions and leeks get them in right away. With these two crops the earlier you get them planted the better!!  I prefer to plant my onions using seedlings,  but you should also be able to find sets this time of year.  Using either method, get them planted as soon as possible in April.  Onions are hardy and can even handle some snow so get them in now.

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You can get some potatoes in the ground during April. Once they sprout out of the ground you should be prepared to protect them on frosty nights with either a heavy fabric row cover or a hoop house. Or you could plant them in a cold frame. What ever you choose just be ready for frosty nights!!  Frost can really set potato plants back, so if you are planting them before your last frost date then you should plan on protecting them.


It is of course not too late to plant any of the three types of peas. Shelling, snow and snap peas will still have plenty of time to grow!  But you should consider getting them planted right away!  The sooner you can get them done, the sooner you have that space for warm season crops!

April Planting Guide 2

Berry plants

Any April planting guide would not be complete without including some berry plants. April is the perfect time to plant many perennial berry plants like strawberries, raspberries, black berries and blueberries.  Early April is not too late to plant them using bear-root stalk.  You could also consider using transplants from a friend or neighbor.

Get these bushes and plants in the ground in April while the weather is still cool. That gives the plants a chance to get established and growing well before the heat of summer sets in!!

Warm season crops

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It is also possible to get a few warm season crops set out in the garden in April. But only if they have the protection of something like a Wall O’ Water. These fantastic water filled season extenders allow you to plant things like tomatoes or peppers 6 weeks before your last frost. To learn more about using these season extenders watch this video, or read this post.

Did I leave anything out of the April planting guide? If you have other suggestions for zones 5 and 6 please leave them in the comments section.


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Pruning Everbearing Raspberries – For summer and fall harvests

There are 2 methods for Pruning everbearing raspberries, one is simple, the other takes more time. This post will cover both methods of pruning ever-bearing raspberries and I will let you know my preferred method.

Pruning Everbearing Raspberries

What are everbearing raspberries?

Brambles (blackberries and raspberries) generally are biennial plants, meaning the first years cane growth (primocanes) produce only leafy growth and the flower buds that will bloom the next year. In the second year those canes (now called floricanes) produces the flowers and fruit. This is the case with traditional June-bearing raspberries.

But everbearing raspberries are different. The first years growth will actually produce a heavy crop in the fall and then with proper pruning they can also produce a smaller crop the following summer. Hence the name everbearing, a row or patch (in my case) of raspberries when properly pruned will produce a early summer crop (June/July) and then a later fall crop (August/September/October). The early summer crop will always be much smaller but you will usually have a continuous harvest from late June to the first hard frost.

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There are two methods for pruning everbearing raspberries. The first is more difficult and will produce 2 crops. The second is easy but only produces a fall crop each year (although this is by far the larger crop). I will describe each method below.

When should you be pruning everbearing raspberries?

My preferred time for pruning everbearing raspberries is in the spring, just as the new growth is emerging from the ground. This has the advantage of allowing you to see where new canes are going to be growing this year and allows you to thin entire plants when necessary I also like the spring because I always seem to have more time in the spring to get the pruning done. I’m so rushed in the fall that I never have time to get to it. I also think it is easier to prune the canes when all the leaves are off. But if you prefer, there is no reason you can’t prune in the late fall after the leaves have fallen off the canes. That is especially true of method #2.

One warning before you begin. Raspberries are thorny, sticky plants. When pruning ever-bearing raspberries you should wear heavy gloves, long sleeves and eye protection! Without it you will be pulling thorns and healing scratches for weeks afterwards!

Pruning Everbearing Raspberries for 2 crops

The first year your raspberry patch is fully established you will notice that fruit production always begins at the tip of the cane and works it’s way down the cane towards the base. Once a cane has produced fruit on the end of the cane there will be no more production on that part of the cane, in fact it will often die off.

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So when pruning for 2 crops you remove the portion of the cane that has already produced fruit the prior year.

Pruning Everbearing Raspberries 2

This can be a tedious process as you will need to prune the ends of of nearly every cane in the patch. You know you have pruned to the right spot when you can see a bit of green in the end of the cane where you cut it, like the picture above.

If when you prune the cane the cut end appears dry and dead, then you can cut a little further down the cane until you find green.

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These pruned canes will now continue to produce down the cane in early summer. Once the cane has finished producing it will die back. The cane can then be cut down to just above the ground level, or you can wait and cut out those dead canes next spring. To help them determine what canes to remove the following spring many gardeners mark the floricanes by tying a piece of yarn on the cane when doing the spring pruning (or you could mark with a bit of paint).

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You can see that most of the potential fruit in a cane is on the long end of the cane that bore last year. So this years crop (the early summer crop) will be small! For this reason many growers decide that method #1 is too much work for too little reward.

Pruning Everbearing Raspberries for 1 fall crop

If you are like me then you may think that method #1 is a whole bunch of work!! The first year we grew ever-bearing raspberries I used method #1 and then to be honest with you I got tired of it!

The far simpler method for Pruning everbearing raspberries is to simply forget about the early summer crop and prune for one larger fall crop.

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This is accomplished, also in the spring, by simply cutting all of your patches first year growth down to the ground. My patch is not overly large so I just use hand pruners and cut the canes within an inch of the ground in late March. You could also use a pair of sharp hedge clippers to “munch” your way through the patch. The new canes grow up from the roots of the plants and produce an abundant crop in the late summer and fall. I even know a few people that simply prune their patch by running all of the canes over with a lawn mower!!! I really don’t recommend this method. It can damage the base of the plants and the rough cut from the mower allows more room for pests to enter. BUT if you really are that pressed for time the mower method will work.


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Along with the simplicity and time savings of method #2 there is an other added benefit to the fall crop method. Because you have removed all of last years plants there is less competition for resources in your patch. This makes for stronger, healthier plants that then go on to produce an even heavier crop of fruit in the fall!

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Here is a list of some of the many available everbearing raspberries. This list doesn’t even come close to listing all the different everbearing varieties, but will give you a place to get started.

Heritage, Ruby, Redwing, Summit, Amity, Canby and Carolines

Stay tuned later this spring, my plan is to film a video when I prune my patch.  I will demonstrate both methods for pruning everbearing raspberries.

WARNING: Please keep in mind that either of these methods are meant ONLY FOR EVERBEARING RASPBERRY VARIETIES. Traditional June-bearing raspberries and nearly all varieties of Blackberries are pruned much differently!! Make sure you have ever-bearing varieties before using these pruning methods. If you try method #2 on June-bearing raspberries or any blackberries you will NEVER get any fruit!!

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Pruning Everbearing Raspberries FB